Licorice & brightening botanicals: nature's path to even-toned, calm-looking skin

How it works

Brightening botanicals work through multiple complementary pathways. Licorice's glabridin is a polyphenol that interferes with tyrosinase, the enzyme that catalyzes the rate-limiting step in melanin synthesis — less tyrosinase activity means less new pigment is formed. Glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid (the broader licorice family) have anti-inflammatory activity that helps calm the look of redness and reduce the irritation-driven pigmentation cascade that follows breakouts and sensitivity events. Hexylresorcinol is a synthetic resorcinol-class brightener that interferes with melanin synthesis and works synergistically with niacinamide to help fade the appearance of dark spots and post-breakout marks. Tephrosia purpurea (wild indigo) brings antioxidant and anti-inflammatory action that helps brighten the look of under-eye skin and reduce the appearance of redness.

The visible result of consistent use: a calmer-looking, more even-toned complexion with fewer visible spots, less reactive-looking redness, and a brighter, more luminous appearance — particularly when paired with daily SPF (essential, since UV exposure is the primary driver of pigmentation).

Skin types & concerns it suits

• Sensitive-feeling and reactive-feeling skin: licorice's calming polyphenols help decrease the appearance of sensitivity and reduce the look of redness
• Hyperpigmentation-prone skin and post-inflammatory marks: brightening botanicals are commonly used topical ingredients for evening the appearance of mottled tone
• Mature skin: layered tone-evening over time supports a more luminous-looking complexion
• Breakout-prone skin: hexylresorcinol-niacinamide combinations help fade post-breakout marks
• Under-eye darkness: tephrosia purpurea helps brighten the look of under-eye skin and visibly reduce dark circles
• All skin types prioritizing tone and clarity: brightening botanicals layer easily across most regimens

How licorice and brightening botanicals compare to other brighteners

Compared with vitamin C, which works mainly as an antioxidant and a tyrosinase inhibitor at acidic pH, licorice's glabridin works at neutral pH and tends to be gentler on sensitivity-prone skin. Compared with niacinamide (which blocks melanosome transfer between cells), licorice and hexylresorcinol act earlier in the pigmentation pathway — at the melanin-synthesis step — making them complementary rather than redundant. Compared with prescription brighteners like hydroquinone, licorice and hexylresorcinol are gentler, well-tolerated for long-term use, and don't carry the rebound-pigmentation risks associated with high-potency prescription agents. The most effective brightening regimens layer multiple actives. For more, see The International Dermal Institute's Ingredients 101: Brightening Agents — What Actually Works and How to Spot Them. For a deeper professional view of how pigment forms — and why daily SPF is the foundation of any brightening regimen — see Understanding Skin Pigmentation & The Ingredients That Help Fade Dark Spots.

Tips for use

• Pair brightening botanicals with daily broad-spectrum SPF — sun protection is essential for visible tone-evening results
• Layer licorice-rich serums and moisturizers over hydrators for compounding calming benefits
• Be patient — visible brightening builds over consistent weeks of daily use
• For post-breakout marks, prioritize formulas that pair hexylresorcinol with niacinamide for compounding action

Safety & considerations

• Licorice and brightening botanicals are well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive-feeling skin
• These topicals are generally considered safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding, but always consult your healthcare provider before introducing any new active
• Daily SPF is non-negotiable — UV exposure can worsen the appearance of uneven tone and undermine brightening results
• Patch-test if you have a documented allergy to licorice, legumes, or any cited botanical

Licorice is one of the most well-researched calming and brightening botanicals in skin care, appearing in several forms across modern skin-care formulations. Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, the most-used form, helps soothe and calm the look of irritated skin and supports a calmer, more comfortable-looking complexion³ — often paired with glucosamine HCL for added hydrating, renewing benefits. Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root blends help soothe and calm skin while decreasing the appearance of sensitivity¹. And brightening complexes of glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice), rice, and grapefruit help even the appearance of skin tone — a powerful botanical approach to refining the look of skin.

Beyond licorice, several other plant- and synthetic-derived brightening agents target uneven tone. Hexylresorcinol helps fade the appearance of post-breakout marks and brighten the look of skin⁴, and pairs well with niacinamide, where the duo works synergistically to help fade the appearance of dark spots for brighter, more even-toned skin. Tephrosia purpurea (wild indigo) seed extract, a native Indian plant, has properties that help brighten the look of skin by increasing under-eye luminosity, improving the look of skin tone, visibly reducing the appearance of under-eye dark circles². Light-diffusing technology is designed to optically refine the appearance of skin and help even the look of pigmentation while active ingredients work over time. Used together, these botanicals and brighteners offer a multi-layered approach to clearer-looking, calmer-looking, and visibly more even-toned skin.

For first-time users navigating a brightening regimen, we recommend speaking with a skin therapist via Face Mapping skin analysis to choose the right combination of brighteners for your skin tone and concerns.

FAQs

Q: What does licorice do for skin?
A: Licorice-derived ingredients help soothe and calm the look of irritated skin, decrease the appearance of sensitivity, and help even skin tone. Glabridin, a polyphenol from licorice, also interferes with tyrosinase — the enzyme responsible for melanin production — making licorice a gentle, dual-action calming and brightening botanical.

Q: Can licorice help with dark spots?
A: Yes. Licorice helps interfere with melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition and works alongside other brightening botanicals to help fade the appearance of dark spots and post-breakout marks for a more even-toned complexion.

Q: What is hexylresorcinol?
A: Hexylresorcinol is a synthetic brightening agent that interferes with melanin synthesis. It helps fade the appearance of post-breakout marks and brighten the look of skin, and works synergistically with niacinamide for enhanced tone-evening benefits.

Q: How long do brightening botanicals take to show results?
A: Visible brightening typically builds over 4–12 weeks of consistent daily use. Some botanical actives can help balance the appearance of uneven pigmentation more rapidly with regular application.

Q: Do brightening botanicals work for under-eye concerns?
A: Some do. Tephrosia purpurea (wild indigo) helps brighten the look of skin by increasing under-eye luminosity, improving the look of skin tone, and visibly reducing the appearance of under-eye dark circles.

Q: Should I use SPF with brightening ingredients?
A: Absolutely. Sun protection is essential when using brightening botanicals — UV exposure is the primary driver of uneven tone, so daily broad-spectrum SPF helps support and maintain your visible results.

Q: Are brightening botanicals suitable for sensitive skin?
A: Many are. Licorice in particular is known for its calming properties — its glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid help reduce the appearance of redness and decrease the look of sensitivity, making it a strong fit for sensitivity-prone skin.

Q: Can I use licorice with vitamin C and niacinamide?
A: Yes — these brighteners work on different pathways and complement each other. Vitamin C in the morning under SPF; niacinamide morning or night; licorice can be applied either time. The most effective regimens layer multiple brightening actives.

Q: Are licorice and brightening botanicals safe in pregnancy?
A: Topical licorice and brightening botanicals are generally considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding, but always consult your healthcare provider before introducing any new active.

Further reading from The International Dermal Institute

• Ingredients 101: Brightening Agents — What Actually Works and How to Spot Them
• Ingredients 101: Soothing Anti-Inflammatory Agents — Calming Reactive Skin
• The Rising Tide of Adult Breakouts: Understanding and Addressing the New Normal
• Understanding Skin Pigmentation & The Ingredients That Help Fade Dark Spots
• Sunscreen: From Behind the Treatment Bed

References

1. Saeedi M, Morteza-Semnani K, Ghoreishi MR. The treatment of atopic dermatitis with licorice gel. Journal of Dermatological Treatment. 2003;14(3):153–157.

2. Dreno BC, et al. Well-aging: A new strategy for skin homeostasis under multi-stress conditions. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2020.

3. Zhang Y, et al. Investigating the efficacy of dipotassium glycyrrhizin emollients in adults with mild to moderate atopic dermatitis during remission periods. Pakistan Journal of Medical Sciences. 2025.

4. Shariff R, et al. Superior Even Skin Tone and Anti-Ageing Benefit of a Combination of 4-Hexylresorcinol and Niacinamide. International Journal of Cosmetic Science. 2022.

5. Angelova-Fischer I, Bauer A, Hipler UC, et al. Emollients in the maintenance treatment of patients with atopic dermatitis: a randomized, double-blind, split-body study comparing a new emollient containing Licochalcone A with a standard emollient. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology. 2018.